Rain had snarled Nairobi's traffic, so after waiting at a
standstill for almost two hours, our driver Daniel roared over the
divider, faced the oncoming traffic for a harrowing few seconds,
and pulled into a side road.
It was really more path than road, alternating between muddy
ditches and dust. But we weren't the only ones to take it. So many
of us did that we were only prowling around at about three miles an
hour, giving us plenty of time to look at the locals - and for the
locals to look at us.
This could have been one of the Nairobi slums where
post-election violence ripped lives apart a few months ago. A ditch
between houses colleted waste; children were without shoes. The
buildings huddled close to the road, so close to us it seemed we
could touch them if we stuck our arms out wide enough.
The locals lined up to watch the parade of cars go through, and
it felt like a parade, like a festival, with people smiling and
waving at us and all of us waving back.
One woman caught my attention. She had a butch energy about her,
and was wearing a rugby shirt, a long, patterned skirt, a bald head
and a vivid smile. She was in her mid-twenties, I thought, or
perhaps five years younger.
When the van stopped, waiting for traffic ahead to move forward,
she sauntered around to the front of the van, stopping at the open
window of a pretty, dark-haired woman I'll call Ann.
"Hello," the Kenyan purred, sliding her elbows onto the window.
"How are you?"
I almost laughed in shock and recognition. If she had said, "How
YOU doin'" in a dark lesbian bar, it would have sounded exactly the
same - as a come on.
"Fine," Ann said briskly. She's straight - I'm not sure she saw
it as anything but a friendly gesture. "How are you?"
"I'm gooood. And what's your name?" The van moved forward with a
jerk. The Kenyan stayed alongside it for a while, fingertips
resting on the van, but then fell behind.
A few minutes later, the van stopped again, and the Kenyan,
unhurried, took her place again at the window.
"What's your name?" she asked again, in an intimate voice, and
then said, "My name is Caroline." The two of them could have been
alone. Ann, flustered perhaps, reached into her bag and handed
Caroline a rose. We had vases of them in our hotel rooms.
Caroline pressed it to her chest and turned in a circle. Her
face glowed. "I'm in love!" she said. "Marry me!" She called out to
a friend, "She gave me a rose!"
Sex between men is illegal in Kenya and punishable by jail time.
Sex between women is completely invisible and simply doesn't
officially happen.
Homosexuality is considered to be un-African, either a curse
bestowed by an angry enemy or a Western disease. Former Kenyan
president Daniel Arap Moi once said, "Kenya has no room for
homosexuals and lesbians."
This attitude is not only wrong - it is dangerous.
An American I met while in Kenya does HIV research in Nairobi -
he said that a startling number of "men who have sex with men"
weren't aware that HIV/AIDS was transmitted through sex, and could
be partly prevented through condoms. And, he said, it's difficult
to target a community for education, awareness and treatment when
you don't know who exactly they are.
Africa's commitment to fighting AIDS doesn't extend to allowing
gays and lesbians civil rights in order to help educate them. There
is strong hostility to gay organizing in Kenya, as there is in much
of Africa, even for health reasons. So most gays and lesbians go to
cruising spots, or to places known for their gay clientele, and
then home to their wives and husbands.
They are invisible, or try to be. But they still exist.
Caroline exists.
The rose was still clasped to Caroline's chest when the van
started moving again. She reached out with the rose to touch it,
and ran forward a few steps when it started to pull away.
"What an intense young man," the only male in our group
said.
"She was a woman," all the women replied at once.
The van started moving faster, having reached a portion of clear
road. Caroline was left behind, a single hand in the air, waving
goodbye.